Meet me at the Cathedral!

Today was our first day of work for the FARG in La Plata. We took an hour bus ride to La Plata, which is a city south of Buenos Aires. La Plata is the capital of the province of Buenos Aires while Buenos Aires is the federal capital of Argentina. One of our bosses, Martin, arranged that we meet him in front of the famous Cathedral. It was a dark and gloomy day and I felt like a secret agent waiting for intel on a mission in front of the omnimous cathedral.

Martín picked us up and we went back to his home for a cup of coffee before heading to the Economics Department of the University of La Plata to meet our other boss, Ricardo. Having our boss take us home on our first day is totally representative of the friendliness and caring nature of Argentineans.

At the University, we met Ricardo and three students from the University, Sofia, Mercedes and Cristian. Sofia is Ricardo's daughter and Mercedes is his niece. Cristian is a part of the Grameen La Plata team with Martín and Ricardo. We discussed our plan of work for the next seven weeks. We are going to spend most of our time talking, interviewing and observing the borrowers. At the end of our time we are supposed to create a report on the bank and indicate in what ways it alleviates poverty and accomplishes the goals and philosophy of Muhammad Yunus, who is the founder of Grameen Bank and mastermind behind the idea of social business. A social business is designed and operated as a business enterprise, with products, services, customers, markets, expenses and revenues -- but with the profit maximizing principle replaced by the social-benefit principle. All goods, services and revenue are for social good or to alleviate poverty. If you're interested in this, check out the book "Creating a World Without Poverty" by Muhammad Yunus.

At the end of the summer, we'll present our report to the Economics department at the University. Furthermore, we are going for an assembly of all the banks in the FARG the first weekend of August in Mendoza (northwest wine country) and will discuss our report there as well. We are both really excited by the energy of our bosses and the opportunity to do fieldwork.

After our meeting at the university, Sofia invited us back to her home for drinks and snacks. We loved being able to chat and make friends with Argentinean university students. We passed around the maté and talked about differences between the US and Argentinean culture. For instance, in Argentina, everyone kisses each other on the cheek when they greet and say goodbye. They wanted to know how we greet each other in the US and if we found the kisses here strange. We both love it because we think it shows friendship and mutual understanding. It also creates a stronger feel of family and kinship. We've decided we are kissing everyone on the cheek like they do here when we get back. So, don't think I'm making a move on you next time we meet!

Another interesting discussion was that they found it weird that in the US we say "I love you" to friends, family and significant others without differentiation. In Argentina, to say "I love you" for a friend, you say "Te quiero", but to say you love your boyfriend, you say "Te amo". It's interesting that there is a difference here, but we don't really think about that in the US.

After rounds and rounds of Maté, we headed back and got back around 10 pm. I hope I can sleep tonight after all that caffeine! We are heading out early tomorrow at 8:30 am!

Power Play

The results are in...the ruling party run by the Kirchners fell in the largest districts and lost control of the lower house. Coinciding with polls that forecast a strong opposition to the incumbent, the election results have led to a change in balance of power in the legislature.

So what does this signify for the history of the country? Remember, this was only a mid-term election for half of the lower house of Congress and a third of senate. However, much more was at stake: the power and permanence of the first couple, Cristina Fernández and Néstor Kirchner, her husband and predecessor as president. Néstor put himself up for election in the lower house, which made what was a routine election into a referendum on the first couple and their ideology of state-led economic nationalism. The election, thus was an opportunity for Argentina, to pull the brakes on the first couple from continuing to lead the country down a path of decline. With these results, the nation has said no more to the Kirchners, but only time will tell if these election results will resolve any ills in Argentina's government and economy.

Yesterday, we went to go check out a voting station near where we live. All stations were in schools and universities in the area. Usually Sundays are quite here, but yesterday the streets were bustling with people going and coming from voting. Pramod asked our host mom about her opinions on Argentinean politics. She said that Argentina used to be one of the richest countries but for the 70 years she has been alive, there has been bad government that has destroyed the country's economy. Instead of blaming the country's poor state on leaders and institutions, she said that if this was the government's problem, then we would have had maybe a few years of poor government, but 70 years of bad government signals that this is the people's fault. Voting for poor leaders time and time again. Of course, bribes and threats from the powerful (which is common here, especially in the provincial towns) could be a major underlying factor that led to poor voting by the people. However, it is an interesting point of view.

Pass the Maté, Por Favor

I lost my hearing temporarily after last night...We went out with friends to a boliche, which is basically a dance club. Although slightly louder and crazier, the nightlife here is similar to the US, but starts later and goes on much later as well. We didn't get back home until 6:30 am and that was a bit early too!

Tonight, we had a relaxed night. Tomorrow (or...it's past midnight, so I guess TODAY) is election day and all places that sell alcohol are required by law to stop selling/serving alcohol after 8 pm. We figure this is because they don't want drunk voters...In Argentina, voting is compulsory. Everyone must vote or will be penalized. In one sense, this promotes a more well represented vote, but also runs the risk of uninformed voters making poor choices in who to elect. Either way, it will be a fascinating day.

We had our first experience of maté tonight. We went to one of our friend's house for dinner. He cooked a delicious meal. While we were cooking, Priya got the maté out. There is a culture to how to drink maté. Everyone shares one gourd and straw (called a calabaza and bombillo). One person must finish his or her cup of maté, then it is refilled for the next person to drink. It is a very social experience. When I first tried maté, which is a bunch of herbs packed into a cup with water, I felt as if I was drinking earth. It has a very woody, aromatic and muddy flavor, but with a major kick of caffeine.

In the afternoon, we are all meeting for empanadas and drinks at a cafe and to people watch. Election day should be pretty dramatic -- there could be big changes in Argentinean politics by tomorrow evening. This is a cool time to be in Argentina!

Getting Domestic

Today back in BA, Pramod and I ran around doing household chores. However, as boring as this might sound, it was actually quite an experience. First, I did my laundry and unlike home, my host mom doesn't have a dryer. This required me to balance on a small stool and hang clothes from hangers off the ceiling. I've never risked my life for laundry before. As usual...there is always a first time for everything.

Later on we ventured off to get him a phone and on the way back stopped at this amazing bakery. You could smell it a block away! It was heavenly. I ended up buying alfajores, which are a common cookie sandwich eaten here. It two soft bread biscuits with dulce de leche in the middle. Argentineans have quite a sweet tooth and their favorite sweet is dulce de leche. It's everywhere.

On our way back we went grocery shopping and I ended up making a friend in the breakfast aisle. While we were picking out cereal, this small old lady came up to me and asked me to help her find tea. We searched for the brand she wanted, but it wasn't there unfortunately. Nevertheless, it was fun talking to her in Spanish about her tea search. Later on, I ran into her in the produce aisle. She asked if I was Venezuelan (I've been getting that and Brazilian), and when I told her Indian, she asked where I learned Spanish. She decided I could be Argentinean, but said that I shouldn't want to be...what she was eluding to was the general unhappiness with current political leadership.

This Sunday is the legislative election day. There have been some small protests around town regarding the elections and I hear there might be more on Sunday. It should be interesting to be watching this happen. Many are very unhappy with President Kirshner (and her husband who was the former president), so this election provides an opportunity for a change in the balance of power. It is expected the recession and political mistakes made by the Kirshners over the past 6 years will lead them to lose the majority of seats in the lower house. Additionally, Nestor Kirshner (former president) is up for re-election in congress and is right now neck-and-neck with another opponent.

After getting groceries and saying bye to our grocery store friend, we headed out for empanadas at this great place called Cumana. I swore to never eat another empanada a few days ago, but these were the absolute best I have had. We were planning on only going for a snack, but decided to make a dinner out of it. We even had a dulce de leche empanada! Anyway, this was an amazing restaurant -- they even let you draw on the tables!!

"I'm in a Waterfall!"

Just got back a few hours ago from Iguazú. It was breathtaking. Just think about the most beautiful waterfall you have ever seen and imagine a rainforest with hundreds of them all around you. When we went to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat), which is a ring of colossal size waterfalls similar to the Niagara Falls, you could not even see the bottom of it because of all the mist coming up from the speed and impact of the falling water.

The Garganta del Diablo is indescribable. Pictures can't do it justice...so here is a video of it as well.

Continuing our series of extremely awesome adventures, we went on a boat that took us into a waterfall! Wearing ponchos and freezing in our shorts and t-shirts, we got soaked, but absolutely loved it! One of the best parts of the Iguazú falls and the surrounding park is that we can get up, close and personal with the rainforest. They allow you to walk over, go under and walk right next to the falls. It was awesome to be able to see Iguazú from many points of view. Here is a video from the boat.

After enjoying the day at the falls, we headed back to our hotel for dinner. Exhausted and in need of a warm meal, we stayed at the restaurant from opening until closing. I can definitely get used to the leisurely pace of meals here! I was told Argentinians are very family-oriented. I can definitely understand that when so much time is spent around the dinner table. Plus, good conversation and a bottle of vino definitely seems good for the heart!

The trip to Iguazú falls marks the completion of another chapter of my time in Argentina. These past few days traveling with friends has been absolutely incredible. We had so many good times and great memories that I never want to forget. After only 10 days here, I feel as though I'm living the good life -- La Vida Argentina.

Pramod, the other Harvard intern, moved into our homestay today. We are living with a wonderful and caring woman named Cristina. It was really sweet, when I left for Iguazú yesterday at 6 am, she woke up to make sure I was up (which of course, I wasn't) and called me a taxi. I wasn't sure if I was going to enjoy the host family experience, but it's fantastic! It makes living abroad far less intimidating and makes the city feel more like home.

In terms of my work, we are going for our first day of work on the 30th, so until then, we are preparing our impact study for the bank. For now, I'm going to enjoy the last few days without responsibilities and enjoy beautiful BA!

Going to the Falls!

Taking spontaneity to the next level, I booked a flight to Iguazu falls last night at 1 am for a flight leaving today in about 5 hours. It is now 2:30 am and I will be heading to the airport in about 3 hours. Overall, my visit to the beautiful Iguazu falls was planned and set about 30 hours in advance. Phew, so excited!

On a long sidenote -- I went to the Aerolineas Argentina office this afternoon to buy my plane ticket. It was a pretty cool experience because now I am doing all kinds of errands like this one speaking completely in Spanish. Today, in particular, I felt the process of cultural immersion taking effect. Before booking my flight in Spanish at the airline office, I had gone to La Boca with my friends to show them around. The cab driver and I ended up having a long discussion about the city, Argentina and wine. I was shocked that I could understand and converse with him since he spoke so fast. Then, in La Boca, I bought a beautiful oil painting from a local artist and was able to speak with her about her art only in Spanish.

This was not the end -- for dinner we went to Priya's house for empanadas. I met her host mom and her host mom's fabulous friend Marta. We chatted about the US, my job (which I promise will be starting soon!) and Obama. In this week alone, I feel like I have learned more about Spanish and become more comfortable with the language than in most of my high school and college Spanish education.

After dinner we went to a Tango Show in San Telmo. It was quite a spectacle. At a running time of two hours long, the show started with wonderful tango moves and ended with a rendition of the Moulin Rouge and a salute to Argentina while singing "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" -- yes, if you remember Madonna, it is that song.


It was quite an experience. The theater was absolutely stunning. Niki and I managed to sneak up to the top floor and watch from there for a little while, before being spotted by the staff. The ceiling was lit up with little lights that made you think you were in space. Although the show dragged on with an unnecessary 45 minute singing/comedy interlude, it was a fun night with great stories.

So off for a siesta before leaving for Iguazu falls in a few hours! I've got my camera and bug spray packed and ready to go!

The Meat Platter

As a land endowed with a wealth of cows, Argentina is perhaps, the steak/red meat capital of the world. Literally every menu is dominated with meat items. Being a vegetarian here would be an absolute nightmare. A couple nights ago we went to a parrilla, which is a traditional Argentinean-style steakhouse or grill. We ordered a meat platter that was pounds and pounds of unknown cuts of meat on a hot plate. This doesn't sound bad right? Eating steak in one of the best countries to do so. But on the contrary, we found out that steak isn't just filet mignon and ribeye in Argentina. Our platter was full of intestines, kidney, and even the thymus gland. We also tried the blood sausage, which is a delicacy. It is congealed blood in sausage form. Yum.

As part of my attempt to be as Argentinean as possible, I tried the blood sausage, intestines and the thymus gland. I've decided to take a break from beef for a while (or at least attempt to...). I thought Americans had a fine appreciation for the Cow, but Argentineans take beef love to a whole other level.

A Day in Uruguay

On Sunday, Niki, Emma and I headed to one of my favorite places -- Colonia, Uruguay! After strolling around the town and getting lunch at a cafe overlooking the Rio de la Plata and some of the delta islands, we decided to take Colonia by storm. In an entourage of a scooter, 4-wheeler and a golf cart we enjoyed the beautiful fall day in the fast lane.


This trip was a highlight of the past two weeks. Also, I kept my promise to return to Colonia and ride a motorcycle. Erm, well...I attempted to ride the Vespa scooter, but found that the 4-wheeler (semi-ATV) was my favorite ride. Needless to say, driving around cobblestone streets and zipping along the shore of the Rio de La Plata was unbelievably fun, picturesque, and an adreneline rush.

Check out a video of us driving our ridiculous and random entourage of vehicles down an empty road (fortunately, the town was deserted because it was Sunday). There are more pictures in the blog slideshow as well.

Takin' the City Girl to the Ranch

So I've lived in Chicago my entire life. I've never had a pet or a backyard. Yesterday, I rode a horse for the first time! I named him Rusty. The promise of new and interesting experiences has yet to be broken.

We went to Las Pampas, which is the prairies of Argentina to see the land of the gauchos. Unlike the prairies in the midwest -- there was no corn! Las Pampas was beautiful. After tying up Rusty in the stable, I walked around the ranch as the sun was setting. As much as I love the urban jungle, I can definitely see myself on a ranch or small town for an extended period of time in the future. I don't know if it something in the air here -- but the City Girl is lovin' the country and small town lifestyle.

Here is a picture of me on the ranch. In the slide show you can find more pictures of our day as cowboys and cowgals.


Today we went to El Tigre, which is a town in the delta. The delta which connects to the Rio de la Plata is hundreds of islands situated between Argentina and the Atlantic Ocean. We took a 2 hour boat ride on the Paraná river that flows through the delta. There are tons of little houses, which individual docks along the river. It seems like the perfect spot for a summer vacation!

So tomorrow my folks are leaving and I'm moving in with the Mendez de Escurra familia. This has been a great vacation week and we've had a ton of fun exploring Buenos Aires, Argentina and Uruguay. I'm looking forward to the next adventures of my year of two winters!

The Year of Two Winters

I've been in Buenos Aires for a few days now and absolutely love it! I'm staying in Recoleta, which is a sophisticated neighborhood that looks a lot like Paris. After getting rich from providing grain to the rest of the world in the 19th century, Argentina hired French engineers to build the city. As a result, many of the buildings in the aristocrats' neighborhoods were made in a French-style. Roaming around my neighborhood feels like walking the streets of European cities, such as Madrid or Paris.

While BA is heavily influenced by French, Spanish and Italian and other European cultures, many areas have a more latin flair. We visited La Boca, which is in the southern area of the city. Buildings are made of colorful metal tin from old ships. It is one of the poorest and oldest areas of town. After an outbreak of yellow fever many years ago, the rich aristocrats headed North to Recoleta and other northern neighborhoods, which left La Boca poor and unmaintained.

However, La Boca is full of life! I loved that neighborhood, it is colorful, lively and full of Tango! Here is a picture of me with a Tango dancer in La Boca. I am hoping to take Tango classes while I am here. Get ready -- I will be showing off my new moves next fall!

Yesterday, I left Argentina for Uruguay. We took a 1-hour ride on the buquebus, which is a hydrofoil (part boat, part airplane).

Two new countries in less than 3 days! This summer has already started exactly how I wanted it to be. New places, new experiences and tons of spontaneity. We spent the day in Colonia, Uruguay. It was gorgeous. The crisp autumn air smelled like wood-burning fireplaces. We strolled around the cobblestone streets aimlessly. Let's just say it was a great day. I am DEFINITELY coming back again. Next time with a book to enjoy in one of the cafes and I'll also rent a motorcycle to explore the town further :)

Colonia, Uruguay

What's the Plan?

For the next two months, I'll be working for the Federación Argentina de Replicas Grameen (FARG) in La Plata, Argentina. The FARG is a network of microfinance institutions (MFI) under the umbrella of Grameen Bank in Argentina. I will be working at an MFI in La Plata, which is a university town 1 hour south of Buenos Aires.

We'll be working on a fundraising scheme for the FARG so they can provide more loans to borrowers. Also, we'll implement an impact study to assess the improvements in living standards of borrowers. Hopefully, our study will show that the lives of individuals that receive loans significantly improve over time.

I'll be living in Buenos Aires and spending my weekends (only working 4 days a week!) travelling around the country and enjoying what South America has to offer.

Here is a quick preview of what to expect on the blog:
1. Trials of Maté (Argentina's national drink, which is a cross between green tea and coffee sipped through a metal straw).
2. Riding horses in Gaucho Country (sort of like Argentinean cowboys)
3. Attempts to Tango
4. Soccer/Futbol
5. A weekly count of number of steaks eaten

Excited to share my stories with you!